Step By Step Mod Instructions
Install Tips (For use with a !CAGS Kit)

1) Put the front wheels up on jack stands or ramps and take proper precautions for your own safety since you will be under the vehicle. Make sure you chock the wheels as well.
2) Disconnect Negative battery lead
3) Locate the !CAGS solenoid located toward the front of the transmission on the drivers side. There are 3 solenoids, !CAGS is up FRONT !
4) Most kits are shipped with the two parts of the !CAGS eliminator together. Unplug the two pieces, which will leave you with a small plug and a larger piece with two wires attached to it.
5) Unplug the solenoid from the tranny and let it hang.
6) Take the SMALL plug from the !CAGS kit and place it where you disconnected the !CAGS harness.
7) Now take the LARGE piece from the !CAGS kit and plug it into the harness that is hanging from the vehicle.
8) A wire tie should have been provided with your kit, use this to tie the entire harness up to the vehicle so that it is out of the way.
9) Re-Connect the negative battery lead
10) You are now finished!

This procedure should take you approx. 10 min. Use caution when letting your vehicle off the jack stands or driving off the ramps so as not to cause damage to the bottom of your car !!!

PS> You will still see your SKIP SHIFT light come on during low RPM driving but it will not affect the !CAGS over ride !!!    ENJOY !

BORLA Install

*Using these tips you should be able to install a BORLA on your F-Body in
About 2 ½ hours with minimal problems. *
-Read All instructions before starting-
*** You will need a Socket set(deep and regular), Hammer,
Ramps and/or jack stands and a tube of anti-seize ***

1. The first and foremost step is to remove the old system. This is the most time consuming part of the job. Depending on how old and rusty it is and the equipment – tools that you have depends on how difficult it will be. If you will be doing the job in your own garage with ramps and/or jack stands, you will also need a Sawsall do to the fact that the car will not be high enough off the ground to remove the old system in one piece and will have to be cut off.
2. Remove the clamp behind the Y-Pipe and tap the pipe with a hammer to loosen it. Then if the system needs to be cut off, use a sawsall just in front of the rear axle where the pipe bends. You may have to make 2 cuts at an angle so the pipe doesn't bind up the saw blade.
3. Once the pipe is cut, disconnect the bolt on the passenger side hanger behind the axle and also remove the pipe hanger out of the rubber hanger on the drivers side. If you have a helper, this is a good time to have them lift up on the tips so you don't drop the rear section on you! Remove both sections of pipe and discard (They are useless now unless you want to cut the tips off and save them for some odd reason)
4. Lay out all the BORLA pipe sections on the floor in the order of each section. Start adding each piece to the vehicle from Y-Pipe back (Do NOT place any clamps on the pipes at this time. After you get all the pipe sections on, place the New muffler section back on with the rubber hanger and metal hanger in the rear (Only place the nut on the hanger a few turns, do not tighten yet)
5. Now comes the trick to having your system rattle and rub free as well as having your tips line up perfect in the rear. From under the car, start twisting each pipe starting from the Y-Pipe section to make your system FLOWS with the lines of the car on the bottom. You will see what I mean while you are doing it. Each pipe is bent to make the curve around the axle fit nicely as long as you do this step correctly. To test that you did it right, take your hand and stick it behind the section just in front of the axle up by the heat shield. You should be able to fit most of your hand behind it (unless you are a monster size person). Make sure you have clearance at every point of the system.
6. TIP - - - Do not use the clamps supplied with the BORLA, they tend to leak ALLOT. Go to your local auto supply store and purchase (5) 3” U-Clamps. There are another 2 supplied with the system, the smaller one supplied goes on the first section of pipe at the Y-Pipe connection.
7. Now starting from the Y-Pipe, start placing clamps on the sections and go a little more then hand tight to keep the sections in place.
8. Now bolt up both rear tip sections to the body of the car with the nuts that are already on the rear section. You will see them from underneath the car, but only hand tighten the nuts to the hangers supplied so they move up and down.
9. Now insert the BORLA plate you want to use or no plate to run the system wide open and insert the three bolts into the triangular connection (HINT- Use some anti-seize on the bolt threads and some on the inside of the flange threads to keep them from rusting up to make plate changes easier in the future) Tighten these bolts all the way now.
10. Now connect the passenger side tip section to the last pipe section and place a clamp on it, hand tighten.
11. Now is the time to make sure that your system is still lined up and there is plenty of clearance everywhere you see that it might rub.
12. Begin tightening all the clamps from the Y-Pipe to the rear in that order. Make sure the two last sections (Driver and passenger side tip sections are straight before tightening) This takes a bit of trial and error but it can be done quite fast with two people. One under the car adjusting the tip sections and the other looking from about 10’ away to ensure they are straight.
13. Once all pipe clamps are tightened up, it's time to align your rear tip sections. Have someone lift up on the passenger tip section and hold it where you want it. Then tighten the bolt connected to the car and then the one on the lower portion of the hanger. Repeat for the driver's side.
14. Now double-check all your connections and clamps to ensure they are tight and you still have the proper clearance over the entire system.
15. You're DONE! Take her out and enjoy the pure pleasure of one of the best racing exhaust systems in the World!
* Remember, being under a car is VERY dangerous! Use all precautions to ensure your safety. These tips are for entertainment purposes only and we will not be responsible for any damage or injury should you choose to use them to install your own exhaust system.

Disable Auto Head Light and Day Running Lights

Disabling the Day Running lights and the Auto Headlight on feature is quite an easy mod and can be reversed just as easy. This mod takes approx. 10 min. and all the tools needed are a socket set.

1. Lift the trim plate from around the radio and climate control panel. No tools are needed as it is held on by pressure clips. Set it aside.
2. Take out the four hex screws holding in the radio in. (Note) You don’t need to disconnect the battery for this operation BUT if you do, make sure you know the code for your radio if it is enabled. You will need it to ensure your radio operates after putting it back in.
3. Move the radio aside and look into the dash. In the upper right corner on the firewall you will see a small black box with two wire harnesses attached to it (about the size of a pack of camels).
4. Lift the box in an upward motion, it’s on a slide clip. Bring the box out of the dash, there is plenty of wire to manage easily. Disconnect the wire harness with the BLUE wire in it, just let it hang out of the way. THAT’S IT!
5. Re-install the wire box, radio and faceplate.

White Faced Gauges:

Installation instructions: White Gauge Face overlays.
This procedure has been developed for installing gauge overlays for the 1993-96 Camaro. I am sure that the procedure is very similar for the later cars. It is not very difficult to perform this mod, as long as you take your time and work carefully. It should take approximately 2-3 hours from start to finish. Please read through this procedure carefully before you begin.
VERY IMPORTANT: MAKE VERY ACCURATE DRAWINGS/NOTES about the placement of the gauge needles. You will thank yourself later (guess how I know this). Do this with both the car running, and engine off (key out). Note the normal operating range of your car (temp, oil pressure, and so forth). The needles will move slightly when you turn the key on (engine not running), so keep that in mind. Also, I recommend filling your gas tank prior to installing the gauge faces. Let the car cool to room temperature before starting.
Tools you will need:
Flat blade screwdriver
7/32” ¼” drive socket with wrench and 3” extension
9/32” nut driver
9/32” ¼” drive socket
Small Phillips screwdriver
Cordless drill is handy, but not required

Step 1) Disable your air bags. Consult your service manual for complete instructions.
 NOTE: When I did my install did not disable the airbags. I do not assume ANY
              liability if yours accidentally deploy. It is your choice and responsibility to use good
              judgment while working on your car.
Step 2) Remove the panel underneath the steering column using the Phillips screwdriver, and the
             9/32”nut-driver. There are 2 Phillips head screws, and 2-9/32” screws. Disconnect the defroster
             switch wiring harness, and set this panel aside.
Step 3) Open the glove box, and remove the 3- 9/32” screws attaching the radio trim cover. Also remove the
             2-9/32” screws near the steering column for the other side of this cover. Remove it and set aside.
Step 4) Remove the 3-9/32” screws attaching the bottom part of the gauge pod cover. One of these screws
            is located next to the fuse cover panel, right by the A/C vent.
Step 5) Using your flat blade screwdriver; GENTLY slide it under the dash pad where the gauge pod meets
            the dash, and pry open the pop clips that secure it. You do not have to completely remove this pad,
            just loosen it enough that you can get your hand and a wrench underneath it. This should be no
            problem, as I have really big hands and was able to do this without breaking anything.
Step 6) CAREFULLY reach under the dash pad, and locate the 2 -9/32” screws, and remove them. Again,
             I had no problems doing this with my big hands. If you do, you might want to remove the
             dash pad completely.
Step 7) Remove the gauge pod cover, and disconnect the clips holding the headlight/fog light control
             panel. Set this piece aside. You should now have full access to the actual gauge assembly.
Step 8) Remove the 4 -9/32” screws holding the gauge assembly in place. You will want to do this with
             the nut driver ( I found that much easier).  Reach in, and pull out the gauge assay, and disconnect
             the wiring harness from it by squeezing the ‘ears’ of the connector together and pulling (on the
             connector…NEVER the wires). Take this to your workbench. You do not want to do the rest in the
Step 9) Remove the 5 -7/32” screws (they also have a ‘torx’ head slot) holding the clear gauge lens to
             the gauges. Set aside for now.
Step 10)GENTLY remove the gauge needles from the gauge face. DO NOT BREAK them…GM does not
sell  the needles alone, according to my dealer ( I had to ask…just in case). RK Sport includes a tool for removing them. After the needles are removed, slip your knife blade under the old black gauge overlay, and carefully peel it off. Do not remove the old adhesive.
               Peel the backing off of the new gauge faces, and accurately align them over the panel. Press them
               in place. Peel off the protective top layer of plastic.
Step 11) This is where your super accurate drawings of the needle positions are going to pay off.  Replace
               the needles EXACTLY like your drawings (when the car is cold) Ensure that the needles are
               properly seated on the pins.
Step 12) Re-install the lens on the gauge pod. For now, use only 2 screws.
Step 13) Place the gauges in the car (do not bolt them in yet) and connect the wiring harness.  Turn the key
               to the ‘on’ position, and note the position of the needles.  If they look ok, bolt the pod back to the
              dash, and drive the car until it gets up to operating temperature. If everything looks good, you are
              ready to re-assemble your dash. If not, make the required adjustments and try again. For the
              record, it took me 3 tries to get the needles aligned correctly.
Step 14) Ensure you have re-assembled the gauge pod (all the screws are in). Bolt the gauge assy. to the
              dash, and connect the wiring harness.
Step 15) Install the gauge pod cover, and bolt into place. Use your fist, and pop the dash pad back into
               place. It should snap back in easily.
Step 16) Install the radio trim cover, and bolt into place. Don't forget the bolts in the glove box!
Step 17) Attach the wiring harness for the defroster. Install the panel under the steering column.
Step 18) Enjoy your new look!

Instructions supplied by
Jeff Kirkonis

Z-Rated Racing sponsored by Z-Rated Motorsports
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